I’m a Dubliner

After Kilkenny, it was onwards to Dublin—the great capital city of the Republic of Ireland. We approached Dublin from the south, which was described as the “posh” side of town.

After a lovely lunch surrounded by ancient giant trees at The Fern House (and quick shopping in the attached Avoca store), we headed to the city for something completely different— a moving tour of Kilmainham Gaol.

The Fern House Cafe
Our tour guide at the Gaol (jail) was very dramatic and deadly serious about Ireland’s history and struggles for independence against “the colonizer” (aka Great Britain).

This historic prison is a powerful symbol of Irish nationalism, as it held many leaders of Ireland’s rebellions, including the 14 men executed after the 1916 Easter Rising. (On the way to the prison, the guide played Rod Stewart’s beautiful song Grace about Joseph Plunkett—one of the 14 rebellion leaders—who was allowed to marry his childhood sweetheart Grace shortly before his execution.)

Kilmainham Gaol

The next morning, the sun came out and we did a walking tour and saw many of the city’s iconic sites:

St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin
The Long Library at Trinity College, Dublin, which you enter after viewing Ireland’s most famous artifact—The Book of Kells
The Temple Bar, Dublin

Meanwhile, my son John (who had been in Sweden for work) joined us in Dublin, which was fantastic. It was so great to spend time with him!

My son and me at a pub on Camden Street

We did several more museums with him, including EPIC (the Irish Emigration Museum) and the National Museum of Archeology. We also went to many pubs, stores and even a sold-out comedy show, where we were the only Americans and the comedians knew it. 🤣 (They did not hold back on the Trump jokes, which was awesome.)

Check out the International for great stand-up

And NOW, if you’re still reading, here’s the most amazing thing that happened in Dublin. You may remember that this trip was inspired, in part, by my Irish roots. Thanks to my mother’s extensive genealogy research, I have a lot of information about my great grandmother’s family, including the names and addresses of her parents—and their parents.

One night we walked by the address of the home where my great grandmother’s mother grew up and believe it or not, her father’s name is STILL on the door: Beverly Smyth.

30 South Anne Street is right in the middle of all the action in Dublin City Center—just off Grafton Street.
Beverly Smyth (1817-1898) was my great, great, great grandfather. The company he started in 1846 (Beverly Smyth & Sons) is still in existence. It’s now a well-established Irish moving and storage company known as Oman Beverly Smyth.
My maternal grandfather, Henry Beverly Powell (1906-1964) reportedly hated having “Beverly” as his middle name and only ever went by Henry B. Powell, but it turns out that Beverly (his mother’s grandfather) was a successful Dublin businessman.

I also found the church where my grandfather’s maternal grandparents got married in 1879:

St. Andrew’s Church, Westland Row, Dublin

And of course, I went inside the church too, because I’m like that!

My great great grandfather John Barry (1846-1881) married Beverly & Bridget Smyth’s daughter Mary in St. Andrew’s Church in 1879.
Their eldest child Mary Barry (so many Marys! Very confusing!!) was born a year later — in 1880. She then emigrated to America (Brooklyn, NYC) in 1903 at age 23. She died in 1952, just 12 years before her son (my grandfather).

I had two other Dublin addresses for the Barrys, but did not have time to see them when I was there, so I’ll have to go back.

But the bottom line is: I’m a DUBLINER people. My people were city folk. They were not digging potatoes in County Cork. So the next time I go to the Dubliner bar in Boston, I’ll know I belong.

My son John in front of his great great great great grandfather’s house in Dublin

It really is in a prime city location and currently up for rent! Here’s the street it’s on:

According to the realtor, the “Beverly Smyth & Sons” nameplate can never be removed because the property is on Dublin’s list of protected properties. So maybe someday my granddaughter will visit Dublin and see her great x5 grandparents’ home.

FINAL THOUGHT: we have far too many Johns and Marys in the family tree (on both the Irish and Italian sides). Giving your kids unique first names will help future generations keep it all straight. 😜

Related posts:

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Greetings from Ireland

More Ireland

Last Stop in Ireland

Food and Signs in Ireland

Thursday Doors—Dublin Unitarian Church

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I got back Monday night from Ireland and it was a really great trip, though I did end up testing positive for Covid on Tuesday. I don’t feel too bad…just a slight sore throat and some coughing (no fever). (I am fully vaccinated.) I will be wearing a mask when out until next week and I’ve moved into the guest room, so my husband hopefully doesn’t get it.

I have too many pictures! After leaving the stunning Dingle Peninsula, we went to Kilkenny by way of the adorable thatched roof village of Adare and the iconic Rock of Cashel:

Adare
The very thick layers of thatching
Our tour group only allowed us to bring one carry-on sized bag, so this was my look almost every day: layers. I brought about 8 Eddie Bauer T-shirts, an Eddie Bauer long sleeved travel shirt & capris & my Land’s End raincoat. My ASICS sneakers are very comfy. And of course an umbrella— you gotta have a “brelly” in Ireland!
The iconic Rock of Cashel is a major attraction
Check out how my husband’s Google Pixel phone will remove all the people from his pics. (I kinda think that’s cheating.)
The round tower at Cashel. Round towers are unique to Ireland and its medieval monastic ruins. Cashel is where St. Patrick supposedly converted the King Aengus to Christianity in the 5th century AD.
“inside”
The Rock of Cashel from the street below
Our tour guide Joe getting ready to lead us into Kilkenny castle
Kilkenny Castle
The “Moorish staircase” in Kilkenny Castle

After leaving Kilkenny, we went to Glendalough—a monastic site in County Wicklow, founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin. The weather was very misty/rainy that day, but I thought it added to the ancient mystique of the place.

Glendalough
The round tower in the mist at Glendalough
St. Kevin’s house at Glendalough
A cute little red Irish deer at Glendalough
The mist-covered lake at Glendalough. I needed both hood and umbrella that day.

Next: Dublin

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Greetings from Ireland

I’m a Dubliner

Last Stop in Ireland

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Tell everyone it’s your birthday

Greetings from Ireland

A cat outside my window has awoken me early here in the westernmost part of Europe—the Dingle peninsula.

I’ve officially turned sixty and it’s OK!

I had two shots of Bailey’s before ascending the iconic Cliffs of Moher. Highly recommend.

Cliffs of Moher

The sun came out yesterday and it was spectacular.

“The Three Sisters” in the background
View from Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula
I took a selfie with an owl (that takes skill people)

I’ve been to at least four pubs and had my first Guinness, which I liked. (I got a half pint, which you can do.) I’ve learned I do not like straight whisky.

Music abounds.

This GenX pub singer was great

They have free healthcare and college here! And I have not seen a single American chain—no Starbucks, no Dunkin, no McDonald’s. Weed is illegal here. So…🍻!

Billy Keane (son of writer John B Keane) behind the bar at his pub in Listowel

Sláinte!

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Ireland planning 🇮🇪

As I prepare to turn sixty in 77 days, I am working on my Bucket List (things I want to do and places I want to see before I “kick the bucket”). I’ve always been one to keep a “to do” list (I like getting stuff done), but this one is fun. I started it shortly after my dear friend Carla unexpectedly got sick and passed away in 2022 at age 57.

I try to really think about places and experiences that call to me, not just rack up instagrammable, exotic locations. I have reasons for wanting to see these places. For the bigger trips, I try to keep the budget to $10,000 (or less) for the two of us for a full week. I know that’s a lot of money for a lot of folks, but believe me, I know people that spend a whole hell of a lot more than that on their luxury vacations. I would say we are “budget conscious” travelers, but I will splurge on special experiences like dinner in the Eiffel Tower or a helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon.

Here’s where my Bucket List stands now:

Grand Canyon ✅ (June 2023)

Paris ✅ (December 2023)

Finger Lakes & Hot Air Ballooning ✅ (May 2024)

Tanglewood ✅ (August 2024)

Yellowstone National Park ✅ (September 2024)

Northern Lights ✅ This wasn’t a planned trip, I just got lucky! (October 2024)

Key West ✅ (February 2025)

NEXT UP: Ireland ☘️

Is there any other foreign country that looms quite so large in the American psyche? I don’t think so!

Like millions of other Americans, I am a descendant of poor Irish immigrants. My great grandmother Mary Barry was from Dublin.

My mother’s father’s mother, Mary Barry, with six of her children, including my maternal grandfather Henry (far right). She was born in Dublin, Ireland in 1880 and died in Queens, NY in 1952. She immigrated to America, through Ellis Island, in 1903. She was 23 years old and arrived with three US dollars to her name.

This trip to Ireland will mark my first group tour experience. We’ve never been on a weeklong tour before. I usually book the hotels and do all the planning myself, but since it’s my birthday, I wanted to give myself a break and have someone else do the planning.

I looked at many types of tours (including on bikes and boats), but ultimately decided to try a Rick Steves tour. Good old Rick—PBS super nerd! I love his guidebooks and his travel philosophy in general. Plus, he is a well known weed-smoking liberal, so the chances of having any Trumpers in our group are slim.

So now, I need to start reading more about Ireland. I’ve already watched many of the recent TV shows and movies set there, including the excellent miniseries about The Troubles—Say Nothing.

Our tour is in the Republic of Ireland only, but I’m contemplating taking a trip up to Belfast (Northern Ireland, UK) at the end of the trip. We will be staying a few extra days in Dublin, where our son will join us, so I need to make some plans for that time.

Please send your Dublin recommendations and any advice you might have about planning a day trip to Belfast.

Also, books! What should I read to help truly understand the heart of this country and its people, from whom so many of us Americans descend?

I’m open to the classics, as well as modern fiction, historical fiction and nonfiction.

TYIA

☘️ 🇮🇪

Related posts:

Greetings from Ireland

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I’m a Dubliner

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