I just turned my house upside down looking for our “America the Beautiful” National Parks Annual Senior Pass that we bought last year to go to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. It lets people 62+ get a whole car full of people into any national park for free. (It only costs $20, if you buy it in person.)
Good news! I found our pass in my husband’s wallet, even though he checked there himself. (Senior citizens cannot be trusted in these matters!) And even better, it’s good through September 30. So, I can book a post-Labor Day trip to one of our great national parks. I basically have to, right? I can’t let that Senior Pass go to waste!
I thought about Yosemite, because it’s such a wildly popular national park, especially for international travelers, but that’s a big commitment for people from the East Coast.
So, the national park I’ve most wanted to return to for many years (I haven’t been there since 1976) and that my husband has never been to is….
My parents have traveled a lot. They’ve been to many countries and seen many things. And one thing I’ve noticed is that they’ve forgotten quite a few specifics of late. I’m not blaming them (they’re pretty darn old), but I’d like to not forget as much as possible.
Typically, I take photos of signs or menus to remember where I was, but now our phones tell us exactly where each pic was taken (which is handy).
In any case, this post is mostly for me, like a diary. And possibly for my kids or grandkids who may someday wonder where exactly we went in Ireland on that trip we took back in 2025.
Barry’s Tea in our room at the Old Ground Hotel in Ennis. I thought this was a good sign because “Barry” was my great grandmother’s last name! Barry’s is one of 2 major tea brands popular in Ireland. The other one is Lyons. We were told people are fiercely loyal to one brand or the other. Nobody ever switches brands.Irish breakfast at Café Aroma, Ennis This document is the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic, one of the most important texts in Irish history. We saw it everywhere. This one is in Ennis. Here’s the sign at the Cliffs of Moher. Everything is written in both English and Irish (aka Irish Gaelic)—it’s not a dead language. People still speak it and kids are required to learn it in a school.My dessert at Henry’s Bistro & Wine Bar, EnnisWe took the The Killimer–Tarbert Ferry across the Shannon River in western Ireland. It connects Killimer, in County Clare to Tarbert, in County Kerry This is the pub in Listowel (County Kerry) owned by Billy Keane, son of beloved Irish playwright John B. Keane. Billy told us many great stories and (because it was my birthday) I was selected to play the part of a drunk patron being shooed from the bar with a push broom. I nailed it. 🤣This is The South Pole Pub in Annascaul, County Kerry, where we stopped for a drink on a rainy day. It was owned and run by Tom Crean, one of Ireland’s greatest polar explorers.Tom Crean (1877-1938) played a major role in Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance expedition, one of the greatest survival stories in exploration history. Handsome, right?In Dingle, we were lucky to get in to see the exceptional Harry Clarke stained‑glass windows in the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, part of the former Presentation Sisters’ convent on Green Street, now known as An Díseart – Institute of Irish Spirituality and Culture. A close-up of “The Three Kings” in one of the Harry Clarke windows (the faces, wow)This is where we saw a crystal cutting demo and I bought a cute little bud vase with Irish beehive design. It’s signed by the founder and master cutter Sean Daly.I managed to get it home unbroken in my carry-on, even though Irish airport security insisted on unpacking it! Slea Head Drive, The Blasket Centre and Gallarus Oratory in the Dingle Peninsula was the most spectacular day of the trip.I had my first Guinness at Curran’s Pub in Dingle and it was good. Not all pubs in Ireland serve Guinness correctly. You have to ask the locals.This is the lobby of the Milltown House in Dingle where we stayed for two nights. This horse—I mean dog—lives in the hotel. He’s a huge Irish Wolfhound named Seamus.We had a truly delicious dinner at Doyle’s Seafood in Dingle. I heard a great guitarist/singer at this pub in Dingle. He had the whole place singing along.The sign from the Monastery in Adare explains that the many pigeons you see nesting in the walls of ancient buildings in Ireland were actually a major food source for the monks. 🤢The choir logo (for lack of a better word) from the choir quarters at the Rock of Cashel. As a choir lady myself, I had to get a photo of it. Apparently they treated those 15th century choristers very well around town! Free food, etc (if they flashed the logo)We had a nice cocktail party and group dinner here at “The Left Bank” in Kilkenny. We stayed nearby at the Pembroke.Explanation of another fascinating, ancient spiral 🌀 carving in the Glendalough Visitor Center, County Wicklow.This one has a cross in the middle of the spiral so they think it’s from a later period than the ones at Newgrange.Delicious lunch at Avoca Fern House, about 35 minutes south of Dublin in Kilmacanogue, County WicklowArtist and activist Grace Gifford Plunkett’s cell at Kilmainham jail (subject of Rod Stewart’s song Grace, she married her husband just before his execution)This is a huge sign on a building in the main courtyard of Trinity College near the Book of Kells entrance.An interactive display at the EPIC Museum in Dublin told me I’m part of the large Irish diaspora with the Barry nameWe stayed at the Iveagh Garden Hotel in Dublin, which is in a fantastic location. The ancient Gleninsheen Gold Collar at the National Museum of Archaeology in Dublin. In addition to the magnificent gold collection, the preserved human “bog bodies” are a highlight of this major FREE museum. The International is a centrally located bar with stand-up comedy shows upstairs AND in the cellar. Rosie O’Donnell (who left the US for Ireland due to Trump) has been honing her set here over the past few months. We pinned a dollar on the wall at The Hairy Lemon in Dublin.I finally got my Fish and Chips there. It was good! They served it with pea mash—unclear if the mash was for dipping the fish or fries—or just eating plain.A small sign in the exterior of the Unitarian Church of Dublin, which was very close to our hotel (Iveagh Garden)Pride and Diversity flags were flying all over Dublin.Ireland is a successful, progressive country in 2025. It has great public schools, free healthcare, free college, legal abortion, same sex marriage, and is the second wealthiest country in Europe, believe it or not! We were told on multiple occasions that the Catholic Church is used mainly to “match, hatch and dispatch” and that young people rarely attend mass. Multiculturalism is a goal there.
On our last full day in Ireland, we figured out how to take a commuter train from Connolly Station in Dublin to Drogheda (about 45 minutes away) and then grabbed a cab to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Center—commonly referred to as “Newgrange.”
Brú na Bóinne is one of the world’s most important prehistoric archaeological sites. Older than both the pyramids and Stonehenge, it’s home to the massive passage tombs of Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth. With advance tickets, you can tour Knowth and Newgrange with a guide.
Knowth (dating from 3,200 BCE)
Knowth includes one large central mound surrounded by 17 smaller satellite mounds.
The large mound at Knowth (behind us) features two opposing passageways—one facing east and the other west—which are believed to relate to the equinoxes.
The decorated stones around the bases of the mounds are referred to as kerbstones. These large stones feature intricate megalithic art, including spirals, concentric circles, and other abstract motifs carved by Neolithic peoples.
Hard to make out, but experts believe this is an ancient lunar calendar on a kerbstone at Knowth.
The view from atop the largest mound at Knowth. We happened to visit on Father’s Day (which is the same day in Ireland) and there were Irish fathers and sons visiting too! ☘️
You can ascend to the top of the largest mound at Knowth and actually go inside the Newgrange tomb through a narrow, rocky passageway to experience this 5,000 year old sacred space which was engineered with astonishing precision to align with the solstice sun, when it miraculously lights the inner burial chamber.
Newgrange (3,200 BCE)
It’s a surreal feeling to stand in an underground chamber built by humans 5,000 years ago. At one point, the guide extinguished all light in the tomb, submerging the chamber into pitch blackness, and then demonstrated with an artificial light how the chamber lights up (for about 17 minutes) on the winter solstice.
The entrance to Newgrange—the opening above the door that allows light to enter is called “the roof box.” It was ingeniously designed to align with the rising sun during the winter solstice, allowing sunlight to illuminate the inner chamber—an extraordinary feat of Neolithic engineering and astronomy.Detail of the Kerbstone at the entrance to Newgrange. No photography was allowed inside the tomb (a rule I reluctantly obeyed!), but there was a magnificent stone inside the chamber with a similar (but perfect) tri-spiral.This is a postcard picture of the tri-spiral in the chamber. Isn’t it beautiful? What do you think it means? The experts can only guess. The exterior wall of Newgrange This is a replica of one corner of the Newgrange chamber in the Visitors Center. It shows how the light first comes in on the winter solstice. The actual chamber was much bigger and very tall when we stood inside it, with large recesses on three sides for sacred objects, including one with the perfect tri-spiral stone.
It is believed that the passage tombs of Brú na Bóinne were Stone Age burial sites for high-status individuals, where cremated human remains were placed in stone basins within the chambers. These tombs reflect a Neolithic belief system centered on death, ancestor worship, and a deep reverence for cosmic cycles—especially the sun.
In addition to human remains, archaeologists have found animal bones—including those of cattle, birds, and dogs. It is thought they had ritual significance, possibly as offerings or symbolic companions in the afterlife, reflecting complex spiritual beliefs that linked humans, animals, and the natural world.
Pre-Christianity is fascinating, right?? Because nobody really knows what they believed or were actually thinking! What do you think?
After Kilkenny, it was onwards to Dublin—the great capital city of the Republic of Ireland. We approached Dublin from the south, which was described as the “posh” side of town.
After a lovely lunch surrounded by ancient giant trees at The Fern House (and quick shopping in the attached Avoca store), we headed to the city for something completely different— a moving tour of Kilmainham Gaol.
The Fern House Cafe
Our tour guide at the Gaol (jail) was very dramatic and deadly serious about Ireland’s history and struggles for independence against “the colonizer” (aka Great Britain).
This historic prison is a powerful symbol of Irish nationalism, as it held many leaders of Ireland’s rebellions, including the 14 men executed after the 1916 Easter Rising. (On the way to the prison, the guide played Rod Stewart’s beautiful song Grace about Joseph Plunkett—one of the 14 rebellion leaders—who was allowed to marry his childhood sweetheart Grace shortly before his execution.)
Kilmainham Gaol
The next morning, the sun came out and we did a walking tour and saw many of the city’s iconic sites:
St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin
The Long Library at Trinity College, Dublin, which you enter after viewing Ireland’s most famous artifact—The Book of KellsThe Temple Bar, Dublin
Meanwhile, my son John (who had been in Sweden for work) joined us in Dublin, which was fantastic. It was so great to spend time with him!
My son and me at a pub on Camden Street
We did several more museums with him, including EPIC (the Irish Emigration Museum) and the National Museum of Archeology. We also went to many pubs, stores and even a sold-out comedy show, where we were the only Americans and the comedians knew it. 🤣 (They did not hold back on the Trump jokes, which was awesome.)
Check out the International for great stand-up
And NOW, if you’re still reading, here’s the most amazing thing that happened in Dublin. You may remember that this trip was inspired, in part, by my Irish roots. Thanks to my mother’s extensive genealogy research, I have a lot of information about my great grandmother’s family, including the names and addresses of her parents—and their parents.
One night we walked by the address of the home where my great grandmother’s mother grew up and believe it or not, her father’s name is STILL on the door: Beverly Smyth.
30 South Anne Street is right in the middle of all the action in Dublin City Center—just off Grafton Street. Beverly Smyth (1817-1898) was my great, great, great grandfather. The company he started in 1846 (Beverly Smyth & Sons) is still in existence. It’s now a well-established Irish moving and storage company known as Oman Beverly Smyth.My maternal grandfather, Henry Beverly Powell (1906-1964) reportedly hated having “Beverly” as his middle name and only ever went by Henry B. Powell, but it turns out that Beverly (his mother’s grandfather) was a successful Dublin businessman.
I also found the church where my grandfather’s maternal grandparents got married in 1879:
St. Andrew’s Church, Westland Row, Dublin
And of course, I went inside the church too, because I’m like that!
My great great grandfather John Barry (1846-1881) married Beverly & Bridget Smyth’s daughter Mary in St. Andrew’s Church in 1879.Their eldest child Mary Barry (so many Marys! Very confusing!!) was born a year later — in 1880. She then emigrated to America (Brooklyn, NYC) in 1903 at age 23. She died in 1952, just 12 years before her son (my grandfather).
I had two other Dublin addresses for the Barrys, but did not have time to see them when I was there, so I’ll have to go back.
But the bottom line is: I’m a DUBLINER people. My people were city folk. They were not digging potatoes in County Cork. So the next time I go to the Dubliner bar in Boston, I’ll know I belong.
My son John in front of his great great great great grandfather’s house in Dublin
It really is in a prime city location and currently up for rent! Here’s the street it’s on:
According to the realtor, the “Beverly Smyth & Sons” nameplate can never be removed because the property is on Dublin’s list of protected properties. So maybe someday my granddaughter will visit Dublin and see her great x5 grandparents’ home.
FINAL THOUGHT: we have far too many Johns and Marys in the family tree (on both the Irish and Italian sides). Giving your kids unique first names will help future generations keep it all straight. 😜
I got back Monday night from Ireland and it was a really great trip, though I did end up testing positive for Covid on Tuesday. I don’t feel too bad…just a slight sore throat and some coughing (no fever). (I am fully vaccinated.) I will be wearing a mask when out until next week and I’ve moved into the guest room, so my husband hopefully doesn’t get it.
I have too many pictures! After leaving the stunning Dingle Peninsula, we went to Kilkenny by way of the adorable thatched roof village of Adare and the iconic Rock of Cashel:
AdareThe very thick layers of thatchingOur tour group only allowed us to bring one carry-on sized bag, so this was my look almost every day: layers. I brought about 8 Eddie Bauer T-shirts, an Eddie Bauer long sleeved travel shirt & capris & my Land’s End raincoat. My ASICS sneakers are very comfy. And of course an umbrella— you gotta have a “brelly” in Ireland!The iconic Rock of Cashel is a major attraction Check out how my husband’s Google Pixel phone will remove all the people from his pics. (I kinda think that’s cheating.) The round tower at Cashel. Round towers are unique to Ireland and its medieval monastic ruins. Cashel is where St. Patrick supposedly converted the King Aengus to Christianity in the 5th century AD. “inside” The Rock of Cashel from the street belowOur tour guide Joe getting ready to lead us into Kilkenny castle Kilkenny Castle The “Moorish staircase” in Kilkenny Castle
After leaving Kilkenny, we went to Glendalough—a monastic site in County Wicklow, founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin. The weather was very misty/rainy that day, but I thought it added to the ancient mystique of the place.
Glendalough The round tower in the mist at GlendaloughSt. Kevin’s house at Glendalough A cute little red Irish deer at Glendalough The mist-covered lake at Glendalough. I needed both hood and umbrella that day.
A cat outside my window has awoken me early here in the westernmost part of Europe—the Dingle peninsula.
I’ve officially turned sixty and it’s OK!
I had two shots of Bailey’s before ascending the iconic Cliffs of Moher. Highly recommend.
Cliffs of Moher
The sun came out yesterday and it was spectacular.
“The Three Sisters” in the background View from Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula I took a selfie with an owl (that takes skill people)
I’ve been to at least four pubs and had my first Guinness, which I liked. (I got a half pint, which you can do.) I’ve learned I do not like straight whisky.
Music abounds.
This GenX pub singer was great
They have free healthcare and college here! And I have not seen a single American chain—no Starbucks, no Dunkin, no McDonald’s. Weed is illegal here. So…🍻!
Billy Keane (son of writer John B Keane) behind the bar at his pub in Listowel
As my friends and classmates continue to hit the big SIX-OH, it’s a natural time to look back. After all, we’ve most definitely got more years behind us than in front of us now. (Although there was one lady in France that made it to 122.5 years old.)
Another friend posted about going deep into the woods (off the grid) for his big birthday weekend. No party or foreign travel for him. Just weed and contemplation I guess.
When we were all sophomores in high school, Ronald Reagan was elected President of the United States. In my mind, this was when the “fringe & ponchos” 70s truly ended and materialistic preppiness became fashionable. We replaced our earth shoes with boat shoes. Brand name labels (Izod, Polo, etc) were everything.
And as every true GenXer knows, the definitive preppy color combo was and always will be: Pink & Green. It’s not a color combo I wear much anymore, but I sure do like it in a garden.
We’re getting pretty lousy weather for Memorial Day weekend—the kick-off of “summer” here in New England. It’s currently 43 degrees F and raining. My heat is running. (They’re saying it’s a slow moving Nor’easter.) Last weekend wasn’t much better.
I was in Portland (Maine) last Friday and Saturday. We saw some sun on Friday, but by Saturday the downtown was misty and chilly.
We could see the MSC Meraviglia, operated by Swiss/Italian MSC Cruises—the world’s third-largest cruise line—docked in downtown Portland, Maine last Friday from our hotel room window.
By Friday evening, the chilly mist had rolled in. It almost looked like part of the ship was on fire in the dark. There was a darker eerier blue/black mist coming from one section of it.
My friend Gail and I like to investigate mysteries we encounter on vacation. Here’s what we learned (but feel free to skip this part and go right to the food photos at the end):
The dark, smoky mist being emitted from the ships exhaust stacks was due to the ship’s use of exhaust gas cleaning systems, commonly known as “scrubbers,” during maintenance operations. The MSC Meraviglia was docked in Portland for emergency repairs, specifically to replace damaged propeller blades. Since the ship couldn’t return to a dry dock, dive teams conducted underwater repairs, utilizing hydraulic grinders to remove and replace the faulty blades. During this period, the ship operated its engines to power onboard systems, leading to the activation of its scrubbers. These systems are designed to reduce air pollutants by “washing” exhaust gases, but they can produce visible emissions, especially when the ship is stationary and undergoing maintenance. The emissions sparked concerns among local residents and environmental groups. While scrubbers reduce airborne pollutants, they can transfer contaminants to the water, potentially harming marine ecosystems. In response to over 50 complaints, city officials engaged with the ship’s captain, resulting in a switch to cleaner-burning fuel to mitigate the environmental impact. (It didn’t look much cleaner to me, but I didn’t see the smoke earlier in the week.)
This blog explains what was happening with the MSC Meraviglia and how some states (like California) ban scrubbers near the coastline.
Honestly, the cruise ship industry seems so environmentally harmful and disease-prone, I’m not quite sure why cruises are so popular.
We saw the MSC Meraviglia leave the harbor on Saturday, but another huge ship had pulled in. (At first, we thought the Meraviglia had just moved to a different spot, but then we saw it was the MS Zuiderdam.)
The MS Zuiderdam, operated by Holland America Line, was docked in Portland, Maine, as part of its 15-night “Atlantic Seaboard & Colonial New England cruise,” which began in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and ended in Quebec City, Canada.
PORTLAND FOOD
Given that the weather was bad, we abandoned plans to take the ferry to Peaks Island and decided to try as many of Portland’s popular eateries as possible. We ate our way through the Maine mist.
Maple bacon, honey lavender and toasted coconut donuts from The Holy Donut—made with Maine potatoes
We had fantastic service at Isa Bistro. I don’t even remember telling them it was Gail’s 60th birthday, but a lovely mango ice cream with candle appeared at the end of our delicious meal.
Not pictured, but highly recommended: Gelato Fiasco on Fore Street. The gelato is delicious and they also have great coffee and tea. They’ll even make you an affogato—a single or double espresso shot poured over gelato.
The Portland Observatory on Munjoy Hill
A dense fog on Casco Bay from the Eastern Promenade in Portland
Portland is less than two hours from Boston, so it’s not a bucket list destination for me. I’d been there before and I’m sure I’ll go there again at some point. I don’t think I’ve ever seen Portland in warm sunny weather though. It’s always misty and grey for me.
But hey, it’s Maine.
One final note: the city gives liberal/hipster vibes. I saw not one MAGA hat, shirt or sign, which is a major plus for me. In the 2024 U.S. presidential election, Kamala Harris won Portland with approximately 80.5% of the vote, while Donald Trump received about 15.6%. Good job Portland. I’ll be back.
Patriots Day is a special Massachusetts holiday commemorating the start of the American Revolution. In case you don’t know the story: On April 18, 1775, British regulars (aka “Red Coats” because they wore bright red uniforms) marched from Boston to seize weapons stored by colonial militias in Concord. Paul Revere and others rode ahead to warn colonists. At dawn on April 19 in Lexington, Red Coats confronted about 70 militiamen (aka “Minute Men” because they could be ready to fight in a minute); a shot was fired—“the shot heard ’round the world”—and fighting began. Eight colonists were killed. The British continued to Concord but met fierce resistance. Amazingly, the Minutemen forced the Red Coats to retreat to Boston under heavy fire using fighting skills they learned from native people. A bunch of ragtag New England farmers chased the world’s most powerful army back to Boston with their tails between their legs. This marked the start of the American Revolutionary War.
Patriots Day is also the day they hold the Boston Marathon and many people have it off work.
This year, Massachusetts is kicking off the 250th birthday celebrations for the entire country. We’ve had all sorts of patriotic celebrations this weekend—all with a decidedly anti-Trump sentiment.
If you have time, it’s worth watching historian Heather Cox Richardson give an address at the Old North Church detailing the events leading up to the “midnight ride of Paul Revere.” One of her final points is that the two men who lit the lanterns in the steeple to start the process of warning the colonists that the British were approaching “by sea” were not doing anything extraordinary. They were just doing what they considered to be “the next right thing” at that time.
Since the heartbreaking election in November, I haven’t felt much like getting back out there and joining the resistance, but Patriots Day is special.
I was there in Concord for the Bicentennial in 1976, and wasn’t going to miss out this year. It felt like “the next right thing.”
The American Revolution started here.My friends and I with a Concord MinutemanThere was a huge anti-Trump crowd in Concord center for Patriots Day Speakers and singers on the steps of the Unitarian Universalist church That’s me!
I’m starting to use ChatGPT a lot now. For example, yesterday I had nothing on my calendar so I asked Chat to suggest three local adventures for me and my husband within 30 minutes of my house. One of the suggestions I had never been to (or even heard of): The Bancroft Castle. Intriguing! It looked like a little bit of Ireland in the next town over.
As we were about to leave, my husband was being grumpy (it was about 45 degrees and windy), so I ditched him and went alone.
Here’s the story: In 1906, after a long career as a soldier, politician, and businessman, General William Bancroft began building his lavish retirement home on a scenic hill in his old hometown (as Harvard Men do). He even had a pretentious name in mind: Shawfieldmont. But Bancroft’s dream project only got so far, when he ran out of money. He kept the property for 12 years, but then sold it to Harold Ayres, a physician who converted the structure into a “sanatorium.” Through the 1920s, patients in the area suffering from ailments like tuberculosis (who could afford to pay $20 a week) reaped the benefits of the fresh air and treatments offered by the Groton Private Hospital, as Ayres named his facility.
When the hospital closed down toward the end of the decade, the space segued from sanatorium to social center, where dances and other events were held by the Groton Hunt Club. The fox hunting-related festivities came to end when parts of the structure burned down after a firecracker accident on the Fourth of July, 1932. (Oops, but at least the foxes could rest easier.)
It was a short but steep hike up to the Bancroft Castle in Groton, Massachusetts.
Kind of creepy, right? And I was the ONLY person up there! But I was brave and went in.
Major ghost vibes inside
I headed up to top of Gibbet Hill from the castle (despite heavy winds) and the view was pretty spectacular.
One more selfie inside the castle before heading home
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